Wandering through Bhool Bhulaiya and Bara Imambara Lucknow

Lucknow city was on my bucket list for quite some time. But the obvious reason was its delicious kababs and biriyani. I finally made a plan to visit Lucknow Uttar Pradesh during our Christmas holiday last year. When I searched for the best places to visit in Lucknow Uttar Pradesh over the internet, I was awestruck. I never imagined Lucknow city to be full of wonders. One place that got me hooked is Bara Imambara Lucknow which also probably takes the first place among the famous places to visit in Lucknow Uttar Pradesh.

Bara Imambara Lucknow along with Bhool Bhulaiya is the most astonishing monument built by the Nawabs of the Oudh dynasty. Constructed in the 14th century, Bara Imambara Lucknow has become the symbol of the city over time.

Even if you have only a few hours in hand, the only thing you should do in Lucknow city apart from eating is to see Bara Imambara and Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow.

We caught an early morning flight to Lucknow Uttar Pradesh. After checking into our hotel, we headed straight to finish our brunch with some of Lucknow’s local delicacies. According to the google map, we were just 700 meters walk away from the Bara Imambara Lucknow. So, we decided to walk through the chaotic lanes of Lucknow city. We passed the oldest flower market in Lucknow city on our way.

When we reached, we realized the google map navigated us to the backside of the Bara Imambara Lucknow. Are we becoming slaves of technology when we could have easily asked a local on the way?

None the less even the backside view of the enormous building was enough to motivate us to walk another 1.5 KM to the entry gate of Bara Imambara Lucknow.

On the way to Bara Imambara Lucknow, we spotted a quiet park that gives us an excellent view of Bada Imambara Lucknow (which we later realized is not the Imambara, but the Aasifi Mosque housed within the same premise of Bara Imambara Lucknow). We took some rest and clicked few pictures.

History of Bara Imambara Lucknow

Bara Imambara Lucknow has a fascinating history behind its construction. In the 18th century, Lucknow city was hit by a devastating famine that lasted more than 10 years. To ease people’s pain and create more job opportunities, the ruling Nawab Asif-Ud-Daula commissioned the construction of Bara Imambara Lucknow. His instructions were clear. Reduce the cost of construction by using cheaper, local goods and employ only locals. Kifayat-Ullah, a famous Persian architect of that era, designed the entire building with common materials like limestone, rice husk, pulses. No woods and metals were used anywhere in the entire premise. There are no beams to support the high walls of Bara Imambara Lucknow. To strengthen the building, the genius architect came with a brilliant idea. He made the walls hollow and built domes of different sizes and heights in place of the flattened ceiling. This led to the creation of a series of beautifully decorated archways that can be appreciated from the inside and the accidental creation of Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow. Commoners worked hard to build during the day. And. during the night, nobles and royal descendants worked hard to break the sections of unfinished buildings which they didn’t like. The kindhearted Nawab paid both. Despite such challenges, Bara Imambara Lucknow is considered one of the strongest monuments even today. Fascinating, right?

My Encounter with Bara Imambara Lucknow

After crossing Rumi Darwaza, walk for another 150 meters and the entrance of the Bara Imambara Lucknow is on the right. But this small stretch of the walk was very difficult for us to cross. At every step, 10 different people stopped us to offer various “touristy” services like horse cart rides, tourist guides, tour guides, etc. to show you the 5 best places in Lucknow city in as low as 50 rupees (less than a US dollar). But don’t fall for them. Only registered guides are allowed inside Bara Imambara Lucknow. 

We got the shock of the day after entering. Cameras and tripods are not allowed inside Bara Imambara Lucknow. However, you can take pictures from your phone. Thankfully Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), a government body in charge of maintaining this place along with many other historical monuments across the country, runs a cloakroom at the entrance.

A perfectly landscaped garden and a few souvenir shops welcomed us inside the premise of Bara Imambara Lucknow. You don’t need any ticket to enter this section.

A second entrance and ticket counter are just across the garden. I loved how the entrance of Bara Imambara Lucknow is decorated with flowerpots.

The entire complex comprises Bara Imambara, Aasifi Mosque, Bhool Bhulaiya, and a stepwell.

Aasifi Mosque

Aasifi mosque will be on your right after entering through the gate. Legend has that the British tried to weaken the mosque wall by sipping water through its wall. They still couldn’t break. Non-followers of Islam are not allowed inside the mosque. We spend some time appreciating its beauty from the outside. People still come to Aasifi Mosque to offer prayers. Please be respectful while visiting.

The Imambara

Then we headed to the main attraction on the premise, Bara Imambara Lucknow. The Imambara is a religious shrine for Shia Muslims where the procession of the Muharram festival starts from or end since the time of Nawabs. The tradition continues till today. You have to remove your shoes before entering the building.

Bara Imambara Lucknow has three 3 large halls. The central hall, constructed in Persian style, is said to be one of the largest halls in the world.

I liked the soothing effect of the mint-colored wall and Persian interiors inside Bara Imambara Lucknow. Seems like the Nawabs were stung by the recent obsessions of pastel colors 300 years back.

The central hall of Bara Imambara Lucknow also houses the tomb of its architect Kifayat-Ullah and its creator Nawab Asif-Ud-Daula.

The other two halls were designed in Chinese and Indian architecture. Honestly, I did not find much difference in the interior style. Nonetheless, they are exquisitely beautiful.

Shahi Baoli – The Royal Bath of Bara Imambara Lucknow

Our next stop within the premise is Shahi Baoli – a royal step well. A seven-storeyed stepwell was built to create a water source for the palace. The architecture is quite similar to the architecture of Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow and gives an illusion of climbing down while climbing up. There are certain windows from where the reflection of the entry door can be seen in the water but not the other way around. It was made for the royal guard to keep an eye on all the visitors so that they can prepare for any unwanted visitor. Our guide called it CCTV technology of the Nawabs.

Legend has that when the British were successful to win Lucknow city over the Nawabs, Nawab’s prime minister hid all the wealth in a secret location inside the Bhool Bhulaiya and dropped the key and map to find the treasure in the Baoli. The British tried to find it again and again but couldn’t. Not sure how much true the stories are, but we had a good time listening to all these fascinating stories.

Lost in the mazes of Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow

Our next stop was Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow. Legend has the Bhul Bhulaiya Lucknow has 1000 entries and but just one exit. If you don’t know the way out, you will be stuck here for the rest of your life.

Decrypting the puzzle of Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow

The entrance of the Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow is adjacent to the Bara Imambara. You will find ASI-approved guides right at the entrance. A guide is mandatory for couples to enter Bhul Bhulaiya Lucknow and the rate is just 100 rupees for two. Our guide offered to show us around the Shahi Baoli and the Imambara if we give him 50 rupees more. Though we already visited the Imambara, I couldn’t resist knowing what conspired behind building such a magnificent building in less than a dollar.

Our guide was a cheerful man. He told many stories about Bara Imambara and Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow with so much enthusiasm and drama. 

The hollow walls and domes of different sizes and heights that gave required support for keeping the Bara Imambara Lucknow accidentally created a maze of hallways inside the crypt. Later, this became the best defence mechanism of Nawabs what we all know as Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow. Smart move, right?

A few secret chambers and a series of stairs were built inside the hollow walls and domes. To reach the highest chamber one must climb up and down different domes. Thus, it makes an illusion of climbing down when you are actually climbing up to the higher chambers. The guards used to keep an eye on the happenings inside the halls of Imambara through secret windows.

“Do you know even the walls have ears?” Our guide asked dramatically. Then he went far from us and whispered and surprisingly we could hear what he said. He told us with a smile that’s how Nawabs prevented anyone plotting against him. The reason is the hollow walls are good conductors of sound. A smart design for the 18th century.

I was running to keep pace with our guide inside the crypt. Finally, when we reached the terrace of Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow, our guide gave us some free time to enjoy the view. The view of the Aasifi mosque, entrance gates, and the skyline of Lucknow city adorned with intricately designed arches and domes rather than concrete buildings from the terrace of Bhool Bhulaiya Lucknow are spectacular.

Then, our guide challenged us to solve the puzzle of the labyrinth. But we surrendered within 5 mins.

Things to keep in mind before visiting Bara Imambara Lucknow

Location: here
Bara Imambara Timings: 6 am – 5 pm
Bara Imambara Lucknow Ticket Price: A combined ticket including Bara Imambara, Bhool Bhulaiya, Shahi Baoli, Chota Imambara, Picture Gallery, Shahi Hamam costs 50 INR for Indians, 500 INR (~ 7 USD) for Foreigners
The minimum time required to visit Bara Imambara Lucknow: 2-3 hours
Bara Imambara Guide Cost: Standard rates which are regulated by the Govt will be on display at the ticket counter. The guide took 150 INR (~ 2 USD) for two of us for all three monuments except the mosque.

How to reach Bara Imambara Lucknow:

Lucknow city is the capital of the state of Uttar Pradesh in the northern section of India. It is easily accessible by trains, flights, and roads with the other major cities in India. Once in Lucknow Uttar Pradesh, you can take an auto-rickshaw or cab to reach Bara Imambara Lucknow. If you are new to this part of the world, I would advise you to go through a comprehensive guide for Lucknow city before landing.

I would recommend keeping 2 days in Lucknow Uttar Pradesh to try out all that Lucknow city has to offer. Don’t forget to read 2 days itinerary of Lucknow India with the best places to eat and the best places to visit in Lucknow city.

If you have just a few hours or a day in Lucknow Uttar Pradesh, I would highly recommend squeeze in some time for its younger cousin, Chota Imambara Lucknow.

Let me know how enjoyed this virtual tour of Bara Imambara Lucknow.